Things to see and do on Phi Phi Island

To the north is the larger Koh Phi Phi Don, the only inhabited island in the archipelago, and to the south is the smaller Koh Phi Phi Leh, a nature reserve that is home to some of Thailand's most legendary beaches, including Maya Bay, the turquoise cove (almost) enclosed by a rocky cirque and immortalized in Dany Boyle's movie "The Beach".

A tropical paradise in the Andaman Sea, Phi Phi's landscapes rival the most beautiful postcards, but it's the special atmosphere that draws people to Phi Phi Don.

The village of Tonsai stretches along the arterial roads that anarchically crisscross the thin spit of sand in the center of the island, surrounded by crescent-shaped waters. Clothing and jewelry stores, small and large restaurants, hotels, bed and breakfasts, bungalows, tattoo parlors, bookstores and, above all, a large number of bars, discos and beach bars provide the island's nightlife.

Here, the tourists are usually young, partying until dawn, their feet in the water, surrounded by fire-eaters who sometimes burn their wings to the frenetic rhythms of the latest hits.

To discover Phi Phi and its turquoise crescent moons, you need to gain altitude and reach the viewpoint at the top of the island's highest mountain, accessible by foot. The route is clearly marked in the village, just follow the "Tsunami Evacuation Route" signs. This is where residents should go in the event of a tsunami warning. In fact, since December 26, 2004, it's mainly on the foothills of this mountain that residents have been rebuilding their homes. Along the way, watch the many workers working in shifts to assemble bags of cement and stones.

The walk is demanding - especially the first few meters - but no less beautiful. The road, still asphalted, winds between typical small houses, abandoned or not. Roosters and chickens roam freely among the dense vegetation.

Arriving at the top: a moment of grace, facing the half-moons of Phi Phi, between heaven and earth... A small plateau rises above the sea. Large rocks allow you to stop and admire the view. Breathtaking, and that's not just an expression. Below, the long tails seem to fly over the translucent water, while the hustle and bustle of the small village is in full swing.

A small snack bar overlooks a fascinating view down to Phi Phi Don, with Phi Phi Lae in the background.

At nightfall, young men wrap sticks of cloth around themselves and soak them in gasoline before lighting them in a large cauldron. They dance with the torches, throwing, catching and passing them. As the evening progresses, the jugglers begin to play with fireballs.

But the most spectacular act doesn't take place until midnight, when fire is lit on a long skipping rope that spins faster and faster in the darkness. The tightrope walkers jump, barefoot, and offer tourists the chance to do the same in exchange for a glass of booze. But it's not as easy as it sounds...